Agencia AFP.24 septiembre

París. Maria Grazia Chiuri deseaba que por una vez los invitados dejaran de tomar compulsivamente fotos con sus teléfonos móviles. Por ello en su desfile de Dior de este lunes en París los cautivó con un espectáculo de danza contemporánea y un vestuario liviano como el ballet.

Que la diseñadora italiana imagine una puesta en escena para presentar sus colecciones no es cosa nueva. Pero en esta ocasión fue más lejos: cambió la ubicación habitual -el majestuoso Museo Rodin- por un recinto de techo alto que mandó erigir en la periferia de París, y se asoció con una reputada coreógrafa israelí, Sharon Eyal, para fundir la moda con la danza.

El primer desfile de la Semana de la Moda de prêt-à-porter para la próxima primavera-verano se abrió así con ocho bailarines en un escenario sobre el que caía una alegre lluvia de pequeños papeles.

A model presents a creation by Christian Dior during the Spring-Summer 2019 Ready-to-Wear collection fashion show in Paris, on September 24, 2018. (Photo by FRANCOIS GUILLOT / AFP)
A model presents a creation by Christian Dior during the Spring-Summer 2019 Ready-to-Wear collection fashion show in Paris, on September 24, 2018. (Photo by FRANCOIS GUILLOT / AFP)

En primera línea, las actrices estadounidenses Blake Lively y Shailene Woodley, destacaron entre varios centenares de invitados ávidos de sorpresas y ansiosos con el inicio de esta cita clave de la industria del lujo y de la moda, que se prolongará hasta el 2 de octubre.

Abanderada del movimiento feminista, Chiuri explicó a la AFP previamente al desfile querer rendir homenaje a grandes mujeres artistas de la danza contemporánea, como Loïe Fuller, Isadora Duncan y Pina Bausch. Se sumió así en el universo "liberador y natural" de este arte, donde la indumentaria se adapta al cuerpo.

"Queríamos hacer algo muy ligero", de manera que "el look clásico de Dior fuera más liviano", explicó la italiana, al frente de la dirección artística de las colecciones femeninas de Dior desde 2016.

Models present creations by Christian Dior during the Spring-Summer 2019 Ready-to-Wear collection fashion show in Paris, on September 24, 2018. (Photo by FRANCOIS GUILLOT / AFP)
Models present creations by Christian Dior during the Spring-Summer 2019 Ready-to-Wear collection fashion show in Paris, on September 24, 2018. (Photo by FRANCOIS GUILLOT / AFP)

Al asociarse con Sharon Eyal, compartieron "experiencias creativas, y esto permite tener otra mirada sobre la moda", agregó. El resultado, una colección donde mandan las inspiraciones orgánicas y naturales.

Casi todo es delicado en el nuevo vestuario de Dior, que convierte a las modelos en gráciles bailarinas contemporáneas, tocadas con una doble cinta sobre el pelo recogido. Abundan las declinaciones de los colores suaves de la piel, los tejidos como la gasa y el crepé de seda, las faldas plisadas que se combinan con maillots, etc.

Algunos looks no obstante exhiben más aplomo, como una chaqueta del clásico traje bar que se lleva con un pantalón cargo deportivo, o una falda en tul combinada con una chaqueta de algodón militar bordada con motivos étnicos.

Models present creations by Christian Dior during the Spring-Summer 2019 Ready-to-Wear collection fashion show in Paris, on September 24, 2018. (Photo by FRANCOIS GUILLOT / AFP)
Models present creations by Christian Dior during the Spring-Summer 2019 Ready-to-Wear collection fashion show in Paris, on September 24, 2018. (Photo by FRANCOIS GUILLOT / AFP)

En este empeño de naturalidad, Maria Grazia Chiuri calzó a las modelos con zapatos de cintas de ballet que se llevan con tacones transparentes en plexiglás para dar "la ilusión de que las modelos caminan con los pies descalzos", explicó la diseñadora.

El desfile, cerrado por la top Ruth Bell, culminó con el conjunto de bailarines y modelos reunidos en el escenario, aplaudidos entre vítores por el público.

"Durante los desfiles, muchas veces la gente pasa su tiempo tomando fotos con sus teléfonos móviles y se pierde el momento. Me gustaría que esta vez, lo vivieran diferente", había confiado Chiuri.

Pese a ello, muchos no quisieron perderse la oportunidad de inmortalizar ese instante único para colgarlo en las redes sociales.

A model presents a creation by Christian Dior during the Spring-Summer 2019 Ready-to-Wear collection fashion show in Paris, on September 24, 2018. (Photo by FRANCOIS GUILLOT / AFP)
A model presents a creation by Christian Dior during the Spring-Summer 2019 Ready-to-Wear collection fashion show in Paris, on September 24, 2018. (Photo by FRANCOIS GUILLOT / AFP)
A model presents a creation by Christian Dior during the Spring-Summer 2019 Ready-to-Wear collection fashion show in Paris, on September 24, 2018. (Photo by FRANCOIS GUILLOT / AFP)
A model presents a creation by Christian Dior during the Spring-Summer 2019 Ready-to-Wear collection fashion show in Paris, on September 24, 2018. (Photo by FRANCOIS GUILLOT / AFP)
A model presents a creation by Christian Dior during the Spring-Summer 2019 Ready-to-Wear collection fashion show in Paris, on September 24, 2018. (Photo by FRANCOIS GUILLOT / AFP)
A model presents a creation by Christian Dior during the Spring-Summer 2019 Ready-to-Wear collection fashion show in Paris, on September 24, 2018. (Photo by FRANCOIS GUILLOT / AFP)
A model presents a creation by Christian Dior during the Spring-Summer 2019 Ready-to-Wear collection fashion show in Paris, on September 24, 2018. (Photo by FRANCOIS GUILLOT / AFP)
A model presents a creation by Christian Dior during the Spring-Summer 2019 Ready-to-Wear collection fashion show in Paris, on September 24, 2018. (Photo by FRANCOIS GUILLOT / AFP)
A model presents a creation by Christian Dior during the Spring-Summer 2019 Ready-to-Wear collection fashion show in Paris, on September 24, 2018. (Photo by FRANCOIS GUILLOT / AFP)
A model presents a creation by Christian Dior during the Spring-Summer 2019 Ready-to-Wear collection fashion show in Paris, on September 24, 2018. (Photo by FRANCOIS GUILLOT / AFP)
A model presents a creation by Christian Dior during the Spring-Summer 2019 Ready-to-Wear collection fashion show in Paris, on September 24, 2018. (Photo by FRANCOIS GUILLOT / AFP)
A model presents a creation by Christian Dior during the Spring-Summer 2019 Ready-to-Wear collection fashion show in Paris, on September 24, 2018. (Photo by FRANCOIS GUILLOT / AFP)
Models present creations by Christian Dior during the Spring-Summer 2019 Ready-to-Wear collection fashion show in Paris, on September 24, 2018. (Photo by FRANCOIS GUILLOT / AFP)
Models present creations by Christian Dior during the Spring-Summer 2019 Ready-to-Wear collection fashion show in Paris, on September 24, 2018. (Photo by FRANCOIS GUILLOT / AFP)
A model presents a creation by Christian Dior during the Spring-Summer 2019 Ready-to-Wear collection fashion show in Paris, on September 24, 2018. (Photo by FRANCOIS GUILLOT / AFP)
A model presents a creation by Christian Dior during the Spring-Summer 2019 Ready-to-Wear collection fashion show in Paris, on September 24, 2018. (Photo by FRANCOIS GUILLOT / AFP)
A model presents a creation by Christian Dior during the Spring-Summer 2019 Ready-to-Wear collection fashion show in Paris, on September 24, 2018. (Photo by FRANCOIS GUILLOT / AFP)
A model presents a creation by Christian Dior during the Spring-Summer 2019 Ready-to-Wear collection fashion show in Paris, on September 24, 2018. (Photo by FRANCOIS GUILLOT / AFP)
A model presents a creation by Christian Dior during the Spring-Summer 2019 Ready-to-Wear collection fashion show in Paris, on September 24, 2018. (Photo by FRANCOIS GUILLOT / AFP)
A model presents a creation by Christian Dior during the Spring-Summer 2019 Ready-to-Wear collection fashion show in Paris, on September 24, 2018. (Photo by FRANCOIS GUILLOT / AFP)
A model presents a creation by Christian Dior during the Spring-Summer 2019 Ready-to-Wear collection fashion show in Paris, on September 24, 2018. (Photo by FRANCOIS GUILLOT / AFP)
A model presents a creation by Christian Dior during the Spring-Summer 2019 Ready-to-Wear collection fashion show in Paris, on September 24, 2018. (Photo by FRANCOIS GUILLOT / AFP)